Unexpected Morning Ride

A cloudy/rainy morning at the harbor.

Mare Fox at Pier 1:

Mare Fox

A bit too far away for good photos, but nice to see two ‘iwa flying around:

two iwa

Barge Hilo Bay and tugs Capt Les Easom and Salishan:

Hilo Bay and tugs

Mikioi and Pi‘ilani headed out to assist Manoa:

Mikioi and Pi‘ilani

The reality of the port side of Falls of Clyde. Spot the ‘a‘ama (Thin-shelled rock crab):

Mr A‘ama crab

Kulamanu (ex-Rella Mae) detail:

Kulamanu

The Kulamanu is another ship being forced out of the harbor.

One of the Tiger tugs now in Foss livery as Freedom:

Freedom

Manoa:

Manoa

SPM:

SPM

Admiral’s Barge still hauled out, but looking good:

Admiral's Barge

Mahalo to Paul and Captain Collins.

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Relaxing Saturday

It’s been quite a while since I’ve had a nice, carefree Saturday. Usually, there’s something I need to attend to or think about. It was great walking around, enjoying the sun and decent trades.

I spent most of the morning and early afternoon at the harbor (where else).

Westerdam was at Pier 10/11. Rat guards:

Westerdam rat guards

Hoku Ke‘a arrived with a barge (not pictured):

Hoku Ke‘a

Torm Kansas:

Torm Kansas

If you are not sure what company the ship belongs to:

TORM

Mamo:

Mamo

More cars! Pacific Highway:

Pacific Highway

Pacific Highway detail

Part of ramp and some crew members:

Pacific Highway ramp and crew

Bunker barge Ne‘ena being moved from Westerdam over to Pride of America by Namahoe:

Ne‘ena

American Contender hauling a barge…

American Contender

…full of stuff (gravel, rocks, and machinery)

barge with stuff

Namahoe all pau until it’s time to move Ne‘ena again:

Namahoe

Salishan with Matson crane barge Mauna Loa:

Salishan

Before I left the Aloha Tower area, I walked over to Pier 7 to check on things. The state has posted guards to keep people off the pier since it impounded Falls of Clyde, so not able to get too close.

Kulamanu (ex-Rella Mae), another one of the ships being pressured to leave the harbor by the state. Portholes and viewing windows being boarded up with plywood. Hum of engine (or generator).

Kulamanu

Said hello to my old friend. A zebra dove sitting in the top band of the bowsprit cap:

dove on bowsprit

It’s all very sad.

Taking the Falls of Clyde Home?

Those of you who are interested in large historic sailing ships have no doubt been following what has been going on at South Street Seaport Museum. Wavertree is back from dry dock and looking splendid. (Congratulations to all involved!) Peking is being prepared for her journey back to Germany and a brighter future.

It is quite a different situation here in Hawai‘i. Time is running out for the National Historic Landmark ship, Falls of Clyde.

Lately, I have been quiet regarding the Falls of Clyde. It is not because I do not care. I have been watching and waiting to see what became of the discussions between DOT Harbors and the Friends of Falls of Clyde (FFOC). Frankly, I didn’t have much hope for the future of the ship.

I have been spending my time trying not to be angry and depressed by the whole situation and mentally preparing myself to hear bad news.

Will she be:

• Towed out and scuttled in international waters?
• Sold and broken up for scrap?
• Sunk as an artificial reef or dive site?

Nothing but sad thoughts. Until today. Today brought a glimmer of hope.

Is it possible that there is enough interest in Scotland to bring the Falls back home to the Clyde, should the FFOC’s efforts fail?

A campaign has been started to explore the possibilities, while still supporting the mission of the FFOC. The following is a Facebook post from David O’Neill, who is spearheading the effort:

This is a Glasgow and Clyde Heritage related post, I am looking for volunteers who have an interest in the Clyde Shipbuilding History, who may have skills in P.R., Media and fund raising or crowdfunding. This is a campaign to bring back and restore a Port Glasgow built ship Falls of Clyde. Built at Russell shipyard, now Ferguson Marine.

The ship is currently in Hawaii and was a museum ship up until about 8 years ago, now under threat of being sunk as an artificial reef.

Hollywood actor and Scot, Mr Brian Cox of Bourne Identity, Troy and Planet of the Apes has agreed to be our patron so hopefully this will boost the campaign.

Glasgow Nautical College are also on board and can play a part in her restoration.

Clyde Maritime Trust are also offering help to save this 138 year old ship

We will shortly be launching a crowd funding campaign, so please consider playing a part in this effort, if we succeed the plan is to rebuild her and put her back to work, as a Fairtrade Transport Vessel, Sail powered, carbon free.

Another aim is to include Community Groups and Secondary Schools across Scotland, who can send kids aboard on trips for life changing journeys to fly the flag for Scotland and Glasgows Shipbuilding Heritage.

Please share to all groups and friends you know, this will be a tough challenge, but will be worth it.

I am happy to share David’s message. I spoke with him at length on the phone this afternoon. He is walking into this with eyes wide open. He knows it will be a hard road. I fully support his efforts. I like his energy, enthusiasm, and willingness to explore all channels necessary.

While I would be sad to see the Falls leave Hawai‘i, to have her return to Scotland would be pono, since the state does not seem to care about supporting her as an important part of local maritime history.

There is hope.

Harbor Sunset

After spending most of the weekend in front of my computer, I took a few hours off to get some fresh air.

Poor Falls of Clyde…in limbo. So very depressing. Impounded by the state but still owned by the Friends of Falls of Clyde. I guess the powers that be don’t mind that their names will go down in maritime history as the “bad guys.”

Falls of Clyde

Too bad that it’s only money that talks. History’s voice is silenced by greed.

One bright spot in all of this is that I’ve made some new friends. People who understand and care about the fate of ships like FOC.

Maunawili and tug Hoku Ke‘a:

Maunawili and Hoku Ke‘a

Horizon Reliance assisted by Mikioi and Pi‘ilani:

Horizon Reliance

Mana‘o approaching Pier 9 to pick up some folks:

Mana‘o

Horizon Reliance‘s distinctive stern:

Horizon Reliance stern

Pi‘ilani:

sunset Pi‘ilani

Sign the Petition…

Help stop the State of Hawai‘i from evicting the National Historic Landmark ship Falls of Clyde from Honolulu Harbor. This ship is the only one of her kind in left in the world.

The following link will take you to the petition:
Save the Falls of Clyde

In addition, you can help by contacting your local politicians, news outlets, sharing on social media…spread the word!

***

For me, this is déjà vu, in a bad way. Much more painful than in 2008. Sigh.

The End?

The dreaded day has finally come. DOT Harbors has revoked the permit allowing Falls of Clyde to remain at Pier 7.

While this action taken by Harbors is no surprise, it’s still painful to think about. It’s the nail in a coffin built by arrogance and ignorance.

There’s not much I can say that I haven’t already said over the past couple of years.

Old friend, you certainly deserve better. You have been lucky all these years, but it seems your luck has finally run out.

Thirty days.

***

Oh, long I stood gazing there, sad to be told
How all men neglected her, now she grew old;
And my heart just to see her with pity was sore
For her, once so lovely, now lovely no more.

I marked the thick grime on her main-deck forlorn,
I marked the poor masts of her, woeful and shorn;
And all of my thought was that sure it was shame
To see such an end of that clipper of fame.

Moshulu (1904)!

Moshulu starbd side

One reason for visiting Philly was to have a look at another one of the five remaining Clydebuilt sailing ships, Moshulu (ex-Kurt).

For an account of her re-rigging, check out Jamie White’s site: TheSquareRigger.

It’s strange to see her repurposed as a restaurant, but it’s good to see her nonetheless.

As a designer and traditionalist, I’m not crazy about the font (University) they’ve chosen for her name:

Moshulu fo'c'slehead

Moshulu blue side

What I found really odd was how the ship was painted. Her starboard side (facing the river) was painted in traditional style. Her port side (facing the pier) was painted blue. Very weird.

Windows cut in the hull:

windows cut in hull

What’s wrong with this picture?

should be red

Looks like frames marked for some sort of survey?

Moshulu frames marked

Freeing port:

freeing port

Always looking for practical ideas when checking out historic ships.

Here, this spout keeps the water from a scupper from running down the side of the hull and leaving those ugly streaks:

spout at scupper

It’s attached with c-clamps, I’m guessing for ease of maintenance/replacement.

Rudder:

Moshulu rudder

Moshulu stern

stern view

Since it was dinner time and I wanted to have a look around, I decided to have a meal on board.

If you’re familiar with these types of ships, there are enough details that it is fairly easy to imagine what this tween deck area (facing aft) used to look like:

Moshulu interior

Don’t normally do food pics, but here’s my fancy dessert:

my fancy dessert

(Hey, I’m on vacation…I can splurge right?)

After I had finished eating, I asked the maitre d’ if it was all right to look around.

Emerging on deck, looking aft at a hatch:

hatch

Ladder up to the midships deck:

midships deck and charthouse

I went forward to the bow.

Up on the fo’c’sle head:

fo'c'sle head

Note the deck crane, rather than the old catheads, to help raise and secure the anchor on deck. (Same thing on Peking.)

lighthouse detail

A peek into the fo’c’sle. The windlass looks nice.

windlass in fo'c'sle

Ship’s bell. And…oops. What’s wrong with this picture?

bell and proofreading needed

For the ship geeks who look for such things, here’s the manufacturer’s stamp (Lanarkshire Steel Co Lt Scotland) on a beam:

manufacturers stamp

Hatch just aft of the fo’c’sle:

line on hatch

Looking aft along the deck:

along the deck from just fwd of foremast

Bulwark stays (different style from those on FOC) and rail:

bulwark stays and rail

Freeing port:

freeing port inboard

Mr. ‘I‘iwi perched on the rail:

Mr ‘I‘iwi on the rail

Looking up at the rig from the foremast:

looking aft at the rig

Back up on the midships deck:

midships deck

Mainmast shrouds, detail (seizing, eye, thimble, bottlescrew):

seizing thimble bottlescrew

Small bitts on top of bulwark:

bitts

Ship’s wheel (in need of some repair) just forward of the chart house:

wheel

I didn’t go aft to the poop deck because there were some people gathered around the area and I didn’t want to disturb them.

Going below again, I came across a small gallery of images. I didn’t expect the ship to be a museum, but it was nice to see a nod to the ship’s past.

historic photos

Reproduction of a drawing showing the ship’s sail plan and rigging:

drawing of Moshulu

And, something rather unexpected, but pleasing to see:

can't escape FOC

It seems I just can’t get away, can I?

Note: For those of you interested in life at sea on board Moshulu, pick up a copy of Eric Newby’s The Last Grain Race (1956).